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Concerns and Needs in Diverse Contexts suzni embroidery includes all the stitches that lie flat on the surface and also show uniformity on both sides of the material. This embroidery is done with silk threads, in a multitude of colours, and shades to make the designs look natural. The twill tapestry technique that was used for weaving often required small corrections and alterations. This was done like embroidery repeating the pattern of the weave, thus was called darning. The embroiderers in Kashmir are still referred to as rafugars, i.e., darners. Zalakdozi is the chain stitch embroidery done with ‘ari– a hook like the cobblers use. Originally it was done mainly on namdas , but now it is done on all kinds of materials, includingshawls . Unlike the other embroideries discussed so far, Kashmir embroidery is a commercial activity, done by men folk and thus caters to the demand of the buyers. Chikankari Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh is the embroidery, which was commercialised at a very early stage. Although ladies do the main work, the master craft 139 persons and organisers of the trade are mainly men. Lucknow is considered the main centre for the work. Originally it was done on white material with white thread. The main effects produced are shadow work by embroidering on the wrong side of the material, net like surface by tightening the yarns of the fabric with embroidering, and raised patterns on the face of the fabric by knotting stitch resembling rice or millet grains. The past few years have also seen the inclusion of zari threads, small beads and shiny discs (itara) incorporated in the designs. Since it is a commercial activity, the designs and styles keep changing with fashion. Gujarat has a very rich tradition in embroidery It has basically been a land of nomadic tribes who have thus been responsibleforamalgamationofdesignsandtechniquesofvariouscultures. Here embroidery is used for all aspects of life; decoration of the doorways with torans or pachipattis and walls with chaklas or chandrawas , ganesh sthapnas (all these are important in a nomadic lifestyle), garments for men, women and children in styles specific to various tribes, coverings for cattle, horses, elephants. Many of the embroideries are known by the names of the tribes – Mahajan, Rabari, Mochibharat, Kanbibharat, and Sindhi . Most of the colours used are bright and loud. Appliqué work in Gujarat has its own style. It is a patchwork, in which the pieces of fabric with different designs are cut in different sizes and shapes and sewn on a plain background. This is used mainly on household items. Reprint 2026-27